This Crown Heights den offers upscale down-home fare that manages to be both delicate and hearty. The space lacks pretension — one wall has exposed brick, and the other has a television with the Rangers game playing. The food follows suit: The crisp fried quail, a signature of the menu, is a medley of buttermilk and Old Bay that accentuates the slight gaminess of the bird. It’s served with a side of honey-bourbon sauce that’s stronger than some of their cocktails. Grilled octopus is another example of the mix of high and low. A generous cut of the sea beast, poached then grilled for tenderness, is married with white beans and a slice of pork belly that has been cooked in duck confit and then glazed and fried. If there’s still room on your ribs after the decadent entrées, the pot du crème is a chocolate delight, with hints of orange whipped into a puddinglike consistency. When you realize that Plan B is a ricotta doughnut with Nutella and cinnamon, that’s the moment you dedicate yourself to the entire alphabet of plans on this delightful menu.