- Critics’ Pick
- American Nouveau Southern/Soul $24-$31
17 W. 26th St.
New York, NY 10010
- Neighborhood: Flatiron
- Phone: 646-490-8240
I’m thinking, in particular, of the roasted Brussels sprouts, which the former Gramercy Tavern chef Kyle Knall feathers with buttermilk dressing and a fine chopping of fried pigs’ ears, and the grits, which are served in a large bowl, like ramen noodles, and mixed with a smoky broth made from gently cooked duck bones, mushrooms, and a wobbly poached egg. Many of the heavier, potentially lumpen dishes at this neo bourbon bar are elegantly arranged on the plate (the crispy fried chicken leg, the duck, the rib eye served atop collard greens and puréed potatoes and smothered in a tangy vinegar gravy), and the lighter ones (the pink smoked trout, the arctic char dressed with tiny orange mussels) are light enough so that you’ll still have room for your dessert. The best of these is a refreshing granita flavored with green apples, and the brioche bread pudding, which is touched with a wisp of bourbon for a subtle, down-home kick.
- Best Grits: Maysville (10/03/13)
- Adam Platt’s Where to Eat 2014 (05/01/13)
Sun, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm Friday, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight Sat, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight
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