Sun, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Mon-Thu, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Friday, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight; Sat, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight
N, R at 28th St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Maysville, which opened several months ago just down the block from Hanjan, is another stealthily good new restaurant built around the pleasures of a stiff drink. The boxy room, on West 26th Street, is larger and more impersonal than the snug little bourbon bar, Char No. 4, which the owner and brown-spirits connoisseur Sean Josephs opened on Smith Street four years ago. The lighting in this new Manhattan outlet is curiously flat, and when the big bar area is crowded with bewhiskered gents from, say, Teaneck, hoisting shots of Old Weller, the room can feel like a goofy Manhattan caricature of the Brooklyn original. But the diverse whiskey collection is easily one of the best in the city (there are more than 150 American whiskeys and roughly 80 more from as far afield as India), and if you’re a fan of new-school southern cooking, several of the dishes on the modest, elegantly restrained menu are worth a special trip.
I’m thinking, in particular, of the roasted Brussels sprouts, which the former Gramercy Tavern chef Kyle Knall feathers with buttermilk dressing and a fine chopping of fried pigs’ ears, and the grits, which are served in a large bowl, like ramen noodles, and mixed with a smoky broth made from gently cooked duck bones, mushrooms, and a wobbly poached egg. Many of the heavier, potentially lumpen dishes at this neo bourbon bar are elegantly arranged on the plate (the crispy fried chicken leg, the duck, the rib eye served atop collard greens and puréed potatoes and smothered in a tangy vinegar gravy), and the lighter ones (the pink smoked trout, the arctic char dressed with tiny orange mussels) are light enough so that you’ll still have room for your dessert. The best of these is a refreshing granita flavored with green apples, and the brioche bread pudding, which is touched with a wisp of bourbon for a subtle, down-home kick.
The weekend brunch features one of the better mint juleps in town.Ideal Meal
Roasted Brussels sprouts, grits with egg, rib eye or smoked trout, bread pudding.