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Maysville

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

17 W. 26th St., New York , NY 10010 40.744071 -73.989658
nr. Fifth Ave.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
646-490-8240 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: American Nouveau, Southern/Soul
  • Price Range: $$$

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Photo by Rodolfo Carlos

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Official Website

maysvillenyc.com

Hours

Sun, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Mon-Thu, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-11pm; Friday, 11:30am-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight; Sat, 11am-3pm and 5:30pm-midnight

Nearby Subway Stops

N, R at 28th St.

Prices

$24-$31

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Bar Scene
  • Brunch - Weekend
  • Dine at the Bar
  • Good for Groups
  • Hot Spot
  • Lunch
  • Online Reservation

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Accepted/Not Necessary

Profile

Maysville, which opened several months ago just down the block from Hanjan, is another stealthily good new restaurant built around the pleasures of a stiff drink. The boxy room, on West 26th Street, is larger and more impersonal than the snug little bourbon bar, Char No. 4, which the owner and brown-spirits connoisseur Sean Josephs opened on Smith Street four years ago. The lighting in this new Manhattan outlet is curiously flat, and when the big bar area is crowded with bewhiskered gents from, say, ­Teaneck, hoisting shots of Old Weller, the room can feel like a goofy Manhattan caricature of the Brooklyn original. But the diverse whiskey collection is easily one of the best in the city (there are more than 150 American whiskeys and roughly 80 more from as far afield as India), and if you’re a fan of new-school southern cooking, several of the dishes on the modest, elegantly restrained menu are worth a special trip.

I’m thinking, in particular, of the roasted Brussels sprouts, which the former Gramercy Tavern chef Kyle Knall feathers with buttermilk dressing and a fine chopping of fried pigs’ ears, and the grits, which are served in a large bowl, like ramen noodles, and mixed with a smoky broth made from gently cooked duck bones, mushrooms, and a wobbly poached egg. Many of the heavier, potentially lumpen dishes at this neo bourbon bar are elegantly arranged on the plate (the crispy fried chicken leg, the duck, the rib eye served atop collard greens and puréed potatoes and smothered in a tangy vinegar gravy), and the lighter ones (the pink smoked trout, the arctic char dressed with tiny orange mussels) are light enough so that you’ll still have room for your dessert. The best of these is a refreshing granita flavored with green apples, and the brioche bread pudding, which is touched with a wisp of bourbon for a subtle, down-home kick.

Note

The weekend brunch features one of the better mint juleps in town. 

Ideal Meal

Roasted Brussels sprouts, grits with egg, rib eye or smoked trout, bread pudding. 

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