Profile

U.K. badboy Gordon Ramsay made his New York debut in 2006 with the opening of two restaurants at the revamped London Hotel, formerly the Rhiga Royal. After less than enthusiastic reviews for both, Ramsay morphed the more casual of the two, the London Bar, into a clone of his hometown Michelin-starred Maze. While the room hasn’t seen many improvements—it’s still filled with teal, steel, and glass—the globally-inspired, small plates menu has. Standouts include the cumin-dusted scallops with a cauliflower beignet and golden raisin puree, and all risotto preparations, whether dotted with lobster under Gilthead bream or as a lush foil to wild mushrooms with parmesan. Less successful is the white asparagus, peas, and green bean salad, overwhelmed by frisee, and a carpaccio of tuna and swordfish so paper thin it disappears under a lime-cucumber marinade. A blackberry cheesecake, served up in a martini glass and laced with brown sugar crumble, leads to a successful finish. — Kathleen Squires

Diners can eat a la carte or choose between a $55 four-course or $70 six-course menu.

High Tea
Traditional tea is served daily between 3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.

Carnaroli risotto of wild mushrooms and parmesan emulsion, $14; Gilthead bream with native lobster risotto, $16; hand dived sea scallops, $16; blackberry cheesecake, $10.