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With perpetual construction and traffic rerouting, it’s a wonder any restaurant flourishes on this dusty stretch of Columbia Street west of the BQE. It’s yet to be seen if this Egyptian-owned Mediterranean tapas bar hovering between Carroll Gardens and Red Hook will break out, but at least its border-blurring menu and boho-cozy style don’t duplicate other neighborhood efforts. Sausage alone spans three continents, with chorizo, andouille, merguez, and soujouk. The latter is a crumbly, piquant Armenian link halved lengthwise and grilled with mild string cheese. Smart patrons keep it simple, with dishes such as feta-topped burgers and falafel balls and Turkish-style rice pilaf strewn with golden broken vermicelli and spiced with cinnamon. A solid meal can easily be crafted from the long meze list, though remarkably moist, charred lamb and chicken are reason enough to delve into the entrées. — Krista Garcia

Grilled soujouk, $8; shish kebab, $12.95