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It’s worth hanging in and waiting for Mediterraneo’s simple, well-executed Italian fare. A wood-burning oven turns out crackly, tangy pizzas that make a great appetizer for a group. Salads too can be shared or ordered as a main dish; try the popular insalata Mediterraneo, which has shrimp, capers, and plum tomatoes over arugula served with a light lemon dressing. On a long list of delicious pastas, the linguine nere all’Arrabiata (black linguine with shrimp in a spicy red sauce) is a standout. For heartier fare, try the grilled Australian lamb chops or the sirloin steak with arugula and potatoes. — Laura Brounstein

Carpaccio bomba, $15.50