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True, it's near the East River, but the soft sea breezes of this namesake Greek taverna certainly flow through tranquil Meltemi, populated by well-heeled and well-mannered residents from Sutton Place and nearby. For those who haven't been to Greece, the offerings are fresh fish, fresher fish, freshest fish, and, occasionally, meat. Garlic and feta are the Greek equivalent of American salt, so you'll find them vamping up most dishes. Seven varieties of whole fish are offered daily, and portions are huge and unpretentious, often with nothing but lemon as a garnish. You also get ten choices of filets—everything from halibut to yellow fin tuna. If you're looking for that oompf, you'll find it in the zingy appetizers: Fresh beets come with garlic spread, and the mixed appetizer trio includes taramosalata (red caviar mousse), tzatziki (cucumber, yogurt, and garlic), and eggplant (with garlic and herbs). The saganaki, kefalograviera cheese baked in lemon sauce, is great off the fork or smeared on warm, homemade pita bread. Also good is anything on a skewer: Swordfish, salmon, lamb, chicken, and salmon are enough for two people, and come with tomatoes, peppers, and onions, over a bed of plain rice. — Alix Strauss

Plaki tilapia filet (baked with tomatoes, onions, and feta), $25; "Meltemi" shrimp (with tomatoes, peppers, and feta), $25; lamb youvetsi, $25