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The third branch in the school of Mermaid fish shacks opened in the space previously occupied by Smith’s. Gone are that South Village restaurant’s popular grilled-cheese nights and chicken dinner for two, as well as its cozy back bar, which has been transplanted to the front of the long, narrow space. But fans of the Mermaid Inn will find its signature $26 lobster sandwich and Old Bay fries, plus sixteen kinds of oysters, from $1.75 Long Island Blue Points to $2.75 Oregon Kumamotos. Chef Laurence Edelman rounds out the seafaring menu with lobster bisque, tagliatelle fra diavolo, and soft-corn-tortilla tacos filled with shrimp, chorizo, or fried tilapia. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite