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79 Solid

A worthy open-fire Brooklyn joint, which can suffer when it’s crowded because, well, they’re cooking on an open flame.

197 Adelphi St., Brooklyn, NY, 11205


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The lowdown

If slightly more rusticated rib-eye cut is your particular thing, then I suggest you hop a train to Norberto Piattoni’s popular new restaurant Mettā on a leafy corner of Fort Greene. Piattoni is a disciple of the famous Argentine asado barbecue master Francis Mallmann, and he turns out all manner of “flame forward” specialties on his Rube Goldberg network of wood and charcoal grills in the back, including bowls of shredded “crispy” lamb and a beautifully charred market-special rib eye. If it’s on the menu, order that steak, which you can wash down with what’s undoubtedly the most sophisticated selection of magnums and jeroboams of venerable French wines in the entire neighborhood.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Recommended DishesShredded crispy lamb; rib eye; sweet fingerlings.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized