- READER REVIEWS
Nearby Subway Stops
6 at E. 149th St.; 2, 5 at Jackson Ave.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
- Brunch - Daily
- No Alcohol
3 miles in any direction
This Pueblan mini-chain has blossomed out of a cramped but cozy café into a neighborhood empire. The original, at 149th and Wales, now operates as a takeout joint with bar seating for quick bites; a larger full-service restaurant is nearby on Jackson Avenue. All three are warm and inviting without succumbing to kitsch; the deliberate, thoughtful ambiance is no small thing in a neighborhood saturated with dives, diners, and bumping music. The homespun cooking here has been a hit with Bronxites, but the results can be uneven. Tacos Mexicocina, served with meat cooked in chipotle sauce and quesillo, make use of nutty homemade tortillas. Stick to this order; other tacos suffer from under-toasted tortillas; the same problem makes for enchiladas that languish under their salsas. Smoky chorizo is brought in from a New Jersey butcher and best enjoyed with chilaquiles or in a torta. It’s to the specials board that you should direct your attention: There, you will find the down-home cooking that has hooked fans in dishes like pollo en pipian roja (a sauce of pumpkin and sesame seeds and arbol and guajillo chilies) and verdolagas (pigweed) en salsa verde. Some form of costillas de cerdo en salsa are always available: among them, guasmole verde, salsa verde cut with chipotles, naranjilla (an ode to the fruit composed of broiled tomatillos and tomatoes with chilies), and adobo roja. Finish your meal with a cup of arroz con leche.
Call ahead for specials.Recommended Dishes
Torta de Chorizo con Huevo ($6.50), Costillas de Cerdo en Salsa ($9), Arroz con Leche ($1.50)
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