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In a neighorhood celebrated for dining, Astoria’s Ditmars Bouvelard has become a restaurant row. And the refined taverna Mezzo Mezzo stands out among the avenue’s Hellenic haunts. Its brick walls and widely spaced dark-wood tables contribute a gracious rustic air, and diners are sincerely welcomed by the Kourakos clan (founder Kiriakos now defers to the manager, his daughter Maria). The place’s name is a play on “mezedes,” the Levantine appetizers at which the kitchen excels. Creamy spreads—including hummus, not often found on Greek menus—are fresh and intensely flavored, and pinewood-grilled octopus is both toothsome and tender. Entrées are hardly a step down. A humble-sounding arni souvlaki delivers juicy skewered chunks of grilled leg of lamb alongside house-made, oregano-dusted steak fries. Mezzo Mezzo’s pasta would do any Italian cucina proud, and its “house special”—remarkably delicious squid-ink linguine made on the premises, dotted with shrimp and sauced with garlic-touched tomato—deserves the moniker. Patisserie-quality homemade baklava, dense with chopped walnuts, makes a fitting finish. Mezzo Mezzo strives for excellence over hype. As such, it may not be one of Astoria’s best-known Greek restaurants, but it surely belongs in those ranks. — Karen Tina Harrison

On Saturday nights, Mezzo Mezzo goes from Greek to sheikh, courtesy of a belly dancer accompanied by four or five musicians. A no-cover policy applies both to restaurant patrons and to the alluringly underclad featured artist.

Octopus, $11.90; arni souvlaki, $16.90; house special pasta, $19.90; baklava, $3.95