The food is secondary to the schmooze here. Media moguls rub shoulders with publishing insiders over haute California cuisine at this clubby midtown eatery. The party is presided over by chef/owner Michael McCarty, who plays gracious host every other week, making the rounds to shake hands and spread bonhomie to each power-lunching table (general manager Steve Millington does the honors when McCarty is tending to his Santa Monica outpost). A fish-heavy menu of tuna, cod, and salmon is joined by a massive mainstay Cobb salad (the best in the city); chicken, duck, and steak with garden-fresh sides; and an expansive wine list. Wall-to-wall carpeting, track-lighting, and chrome Breuer Cesca chairs lend the space a conference-room feel, but an eclectic selection of contemporary art and a spacious back room opening on a breathtaking sculpture garden add to the “only in New York” buzz that permeates the establishment. Even if you’re not seated at Table One — more often than not occupied by a clutch of media elite — the vibe at Michael’s is warm and familial: Everybody’s a somebody here, at least for the duration of the meal.