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Chef Michael Gershkovich has adapted his Culinary Institute of America training to glatt kosher dining. Though “bistro” may be part of this restaurant’s name, the scene is closer to fine dining, with special-occasion family groups and affluent uptowners out on dates. The kitchen’s results are more hearty than haute, however. Signature homemade gnocchi are bronzed and served in a savory duck and chicken confit, with thyme and slices of portobello mushroom to intensify the earthiness. Tender slabs of short rib are finished with a light barbecue glaze and topped in cilantro, over a nourishing cauliflower and potato mash. Lamb chops are a chef’s favorite, with golden skins, subtle garlic and rosemary seasoning, and an accompaniment of farro pilaf and fava beans. Diners are greeted at the front door with a copper sink for ritual pre-meal hand washing. A bar separates a glassed-in sidewalk section in front and an expansive back room. Upstairs is additional dining space, with a romantic perch in the front windows. The design is understated, with little more than tortoise shell-patterned lights on beige walls for decoration. Thick strands of dry vines are wound around the staircase railing, a subtle reminder of the kitchen’s emphasis on rustic ingredients. — Ethan Wolff

Gnocchi, $18; short ribs, $42