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This hectic Bangladeshi restaurant, open since 1982, embraces the hustle of Curry Row—luring customers inside the second floor, doll-size space with affordable prices, BYOB policy, and over-the-top décor. Walls are covered top to bottom in colorful wrapping paper, and an outrageous quantity of blinking Christmas lights overhead. The menu offers a host of popular, if forgettable, Indian-American dishes—like a pleasant, but bland lamb tikka masala, and too oily vegetable biriani, along with several mildly spiced Bangladeshi dishes, many featuring beef, like the aromatic dansak, cooked with lentils and spinach. Most curries display a low level of fire, even if ordered hot, and while breads are made fresh daily, those hoping for light, fluffy naan will be disappointed with the dense, pitalike bread that emerges from the kitchen. With so little to distinguish its dishes from those served at other Indian eateries in the neighborhood, Milon seems to have created a following with theatrically friendly service—you’d be hard-pressed to escape without a hug or kisses on both cheeks. If only so much attention had gone into the food. — Alexis Korman

Lamb tikka masala, $7.50

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