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Modest in size and décor, Minangasli turns out zippy Indonesian food nevertheless. Beige tile floors, Formica tables, and fluorescent lighting belie high-caliber execution authentic enough to attract not only Elmhurst Southeast Asians but also savvy foodie pilgrims from Massachusetts to Maryland. The menu incorporates influences from India, China, the Mideast, Spain, Portugal, and Holland. Lemongrass, ginger, and lime leaves are used in abundance, as are intensely piquant chili peppers and soothing coconut milk. Grilling, braising, deep-frying, and broiling are widely employed. Satays are tender and flavorful; skewers of grilled chicken, beef or lamb top a slick of sweet soy sauce enriched with peanut butter and red onions. Beef rendang is first-rate, the meat rendered tender after an eight-hour braising in coconut milk seasoned with onions, garlic, fresh chilies, and lemongrass. The broiled whole red snapper’s succulent flesh is enrobed in a riotous sauce of red chilis, shallots, garlic, and ginger. Admirably, Minangasli doesn’t dumb down its flavors—it wows the taste buds. — Michael Anstendig

Satay combo, $7.95; beef rendang, $7.95; ayam goreng sambal ijo, $5.95; ikan asam pedas, seasonal price