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The availability of sushi in the industrial setting of DUMBO—where streets open up into dramatic views from under the Manhattan Bridge—is a marker of the district's gentrification. Unfortunately, the aesthetic at Miso doesn't live up to the rest of the neighborhood. Though its naturalistic carved wood seating is welcoming, the stainless steel tabletops, white linoleum wall behind the frosted sushi counter, and special-effect flower photos give off a chilly vibe that's incoherent rather than contemporary. Still, the sushi is high quality and prime for takeout. The DUMBO roll brings together sumptuous salmon and tuna with avocado, asparagus and tempura flakes, and the varied chirashi bowl holds a palette of luxuriant fish, flavorful sautéed dried mushrooms, tamago and tobiko, and, the lone disappointment, tough octopus. The appetizer of sesame spinach is under-seasoned, but miso-marintated black cod is excellent—tender, with a subtle, earthy flavor. The small dessert selection includes tempura-fried ice cream, which is a tad too savory. Instead, a glass of the milky, unfiltered Nigori sake offers a lightly sweet ending. — Karen Hudes

DUMBO roll, $14.50; chirashi, $19.60; black cod, $19.60