Miss Lily’s 7A

This Jamaican oasis replaced longtime local 24-hour brunch favorite 7A and has lifted its drunk-food legacy to sunnier shores. Cod fritters with curry mayo are almost juicy and not at all bready. While the meat and veg in the ramen with jerk pork belly are fairly flat, fermented-scotch-bonnet-pepper paste has vampired those flavors into the dark, cloudy allspice broth, which surfs the palate with umami aplomb. The grilled whole fish is exceptional and mercifully fairly boneless. Go anytime. Go all the time. The place is hopping at all hours — brunch (which features an hour-long unlimited-drinks special), dinner, or late night. Eat outside if you can, avoiding the hotbox of spice and sound indoors. And use the best rum bar in town to finally savor the differences between rum, rhum, and ron.