Profile

This venue is closed.

Joining the ranks of improvisatory electric kitchens, this homespun, simply designed satellite of Brooklyn’s popular diner showcases the sort of Italian-mama baked pastas and braised meat and fish that can be cooked without gas. Not that the average diner would ever notice the cook’s constraints. Much more conspicuous are the wonderful aromas emanating from the open kitchen: mingled scents of bread baking, cheese melting, and chocolate soufflé doing whatever it does to achieve such a lush consistency. Chef Massimiliano Bartoli is justly famous for his devastatingly rich lasagne, which comes with meat or without, but we’re even fonder of his comparatively delicate anelli, ricotta-and-spinach-stuffed crepes cut into bite-size pieces and stacked in a pool of tangy tomato sauce. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld