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For those unimpressed by modernization, Mr. Wonton offers a respite from high-concept dining.  Amid the salmon-pink walls and on to the starched tablecloths comes some sturdy, wholesome Chinese fare: Dim sum and appetizers are the draw here; the vegetable dumplings are smothered in a thick peanuty sauce with a hint of pepper; steamed little juicy buns are plumped up with pork. While the menu contains the standard lo and chow mein variations, the vegetarian options display the most skill and imagination—the string beans with fried tofu in hot black beans sauce pack a tangy punch that’s a far cry from the watery cubes so often served in other restaurants. — Sarah Sundberg

Steamed shrimp dumplings, $4.75; vegetable wonton with hot sesame sauce, $4.25; string beans with dry bean curd in hot black beans sauce, $7.25