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Caterer Mitchel London satisfies yet another fundamental junk-food craving with this pizza joint, located next door to his Burgers and Cupcakes. Of the ten thin-crust pies, Provençal is the most inspired: Black olives punctuate the sweet, nutty combination of Gruyère and mozzarella, dusted with rosemary, basil, and thyme. The tomatoes are hearty, canned San Marzanos, and there’s a visible freshness to the classic Italian toppings; thin cuts of smoky prosciutto and handfuls of crisp arugula are piled high on the Toscana. Crusts, which could use seasoning, are lightly charred by a Wood Stone gas-fired oven similar to a brick oven. The open kitchen, with its stainless steel racks and prep tables, takes up much of the spare, pristine room. The glass-paneled front faces a gritty stretch of Ninth Avenue, and marble-top tables and wood chairs fit about 20. When business picks up, the staff borrows seats from London’s adjacent outpost, which also supplies the moist red-velvet and strawberry-shortcake creations by the register. — Kate Appleton

Provençal, $7.95; Toscana, $9.95