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The owners of River, uptown's Thai-Vietnamese hybrid, have let the culinary current take them south to Gramercy Park and entirely new Asian territory. Contemporary materials like slate and stainless steel are softened by a series of rice-paper-wrapped oak frames, some of them fashioned into a "palm tree" centerpiece. And though the menu hews to tradition, the sushi chef has some tricks up his sleeve, like the Crazy Roll of tempura-breaded spicy tuna with flying fish roe. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld