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For sheer incongruity and courage, Mo Gridder’s BBQ wins points. Located at an auto service center, this ’cue stop has brought righteous rubs and sweet smoke to a forlorn stretch of the Bronx that abounds in ramshackle garages and dusty auto parts shops. The man behind the meat is Fred Donnelly, owner of the car emporium, who wanted to reward his customers. The word’s gotten out and now barbecue fans drive in from across the metro area to enjoy his primal creations, dining al fresco at picnic tables or in the informal lounge area. Donnelly’s cherrywood-fired Southern Pride smoker sits in the back of an exuberant red trailer that serves as the kitchen. Barbecued pork ribs get four hours of smoke and a smear of tangy sauce. They are delightfully moist yet firm, and rightly put up a little fight when the bones are pulled. The beef brisket, however, falls short on succulence and despite six hours in the pit, it’s only faintly smoky. Side dishes, like the green and red pepper–flecked potato salad, are surprisingly fresh and vibrant. The trek to Mo Gridder’s BBQ isn’t for the fainthearted, but ’cue connoisseurs should undertake the pilgrimage. — Michael Anstendig

For those unwilling to make the Hunts Point pilgrimage, Mo Gridder’s BBQ participates in neighborhood street festivals in Manhattan.

Barbecued rib platter, $11.95; collard greens, $2.89; potato salad, $2.89

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