The Italian-inflected member of the Momofuku empire took a while to grow into its Chelsea digs, but the current iteration finally meshes with the neighborhood. Cozy banquettes; chairs that are unusually comfortable by any restaurant standard, let alone the bench-favoring Momofuku; and a courteous staff, though all off-brand for owner David Chang, make Nishi a very nice place to eat. Chef Joshua Pinsky has a light touch, imparting big flavor without weighing dishes down. His kitchen excels at gemlike crudi, homemade pastas, and lovingly prepared proteins. The near-iconic ceci e pepe, a coil of bucatini sauced with fermented-chickpea paste and flecked in black pepper, is worth a visit alone, as is the tender monkfish, coated in a charred-scallion-and-olive rub, plated with blistered tomatoes and basil.