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There's no doubt that many of the sushi rolls at Monster Sushi are gargantuan. The restaurant's namesake roll, one of the restaurant's "special" roll offerings, is a combination of eel, shrimp, avocado, asparagus, mushroom, flying fish roe, and spinach, and measures almost a foot long. But to the sushi aficionado, it's not the size that matters but the delicacy and freshness of the ingredients within. These sushi traditionalists might also be repelled by the number of items stuffed into the rolls; the dinosaur roll, another of the "special" roles includes tuna, salmon, yellowtail, mock crabmeat, avocado, cucumber, asparagus, and flying fish roe; so many ingredients it's difficult to distinguish one from the other. Yet Monster Sushi, despite the excess, prepares these rolls expertly; and within those super-sized creations you will find decent-quality fish. The familiar maki sushi rolls, on the other hand, do not fare as well. Monster Sushi's non-sushi offerings are surprisingly good. The gyoza, steamed shrimp dumplings, are perfectly prepared; salmon teriyaki is cooked buttery soft in a not-overly sweet sauce; and cold soba noodles are firm and refreshing. — Brian Silverman

Gyoza, $6.50; Monster roll, $16.50