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This place has studied bistro touches: subway tile, oxblood-red banquettes, and wooden chairs, plus a garden that more than doubles seating, with a glass roof for cooler months. If only the menu were as charming as the space. Grilled squid had a nice lightly browned exterior and only needed a little bit of salt. However, a large steak au poivre was clearly a lesser cut of meat smothered in sauce, not worth $28, even if mashed potatoes on the side generated no complaints. A Cuban sandwich's overcooked contents featured one meat with an odd greenish tinge, and truffle fries on the side ($3 extra) lacked much truffliness. Even the rose was oversweet. Best to stick to happy hour in the garden (4 to 7 p.m. daily): dollar Malpeques are cool and fresh, and $3 beers are hard to mess up. — Jenny Miller

The South Is Rising: Williamsburg, or part of it, anyway, is undergoing yet another wave of change. (9/9/12)