You might think the food can't stand a chance against a 2,000-bottle list and over 100 by-the-glass selections. But Morrell's kitchen acquits itself well in this velvet-upholstered duplex across from the skating rink. Not to be outdone, the chef incorporates vino into the victuals, as in Barolo-braised lamb shank and a foie gras club with port marmalade. In warm weather, the outdoor café is a lovely spot to sip and swirl. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
Recommended Dishes
Morrell cheeses, $16
7.8
"Recommended" Average Reader Rating on a Scale of 10
I was excited to try this place so popped in for a late lunch 3pm on a Friday. The decor is pretty uninspiring. The wine by the glass selection was good but not great (quality is better than quantity guys). I started with a St Emilion coupled with the braised octopus carpaccio (bit too salty and bland for my taste) followed by Le Cupole Supertuscan teamed with handmade egg parpadelle, wild mushrooms and truffle essence (perfect and delicious for a cold afternoon). After an $85 spend I was disappointingly given the check without requesting it and without an offer of dessert, coffee or more wine. The staff busied themselves around me and other late diners, hurrying us to go. When I asked for dessert I was told I if I wanted anything else I would need to move as my table was needed for a 4pm booking (why on earth then was I seated there for lunch in the first place?). So I took money and walked down the street to Magnolia Bakery for a cupcake and espresso. This end could have been so much better handled and spoiled what was an otherwise lovely dining experience.
I've been to Morrell a few times and no matter what I or my friends ordered, the food has been delicious. It's just an overall solid dining experience. The decor is nice, but not overly fancy; the bar always seems fun and lively; there is a prime view of Rockefeller Center; the food is excellent and portions are fair; and the wine list is extensive. The only thing one might quabble about is the price, but in my opinion it's well worth it. This restaurant is always on my list of places to take out-of-towners because I know they'll have a good time. One warning: they close much earlier than most restaurants in the city, so book accordingly.