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In hip Nolita, once a tenement-filled home to Italian and Jewish immigrants and more recently the playground of models, Eurotrash, and assorted other fashionable types, MottSu has a style that speaks of the neighborhood's transformation. With an exposed-brick wall and big glass windows that open like garage doors onto the street to let diners watch and be watched, the vibe is both snazzy and laid-back. Shoppers break for lunch while browsing the indie-designer micro-boutiques along Mott Street and nearby, and night owls stop by for dinner before hitting the Lower East Side bar scene. Sushi and sashimi are mostly standard fare, albeit in larger-than-normal portions, and the a la carte menu is definitely on the pricey side. But it's the entrees—simply prepared but enhanced by bold sauces—that really distinguish MottSu. The house teriyaki sauce, for example, draws out the flavor of the tender filet mignon strips. And no one's rushing you out the door, so take the time to hang out and watch the shabby-chic types drift by en route to the Milan runways. — David S. Hirschman

Between 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. you can get smaller portions of some entrees in lower-priced bento-box and sushi assortments.

Filet mignon teriyaki $24; assorted sashimi, $24