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On the main flank of Brooklyn's muscular Fifth Avenue restaurant scene, Moutarde is a France-faithful bistro resembling a somewhat precious cafe inside a European hotel. The bright, tile-floored room, whose mirrors playing off porcelain decorations give the space a white and yellow hue, outshines some of the menu offerings such as the subdued steak frites an asparagus appetizer with port wine and morel. Better dishes like sautéed duck in mustard sauce make the most of simple warmth and heartiness. One notable highlight comes early: a gratis smattering of raw vegetables served on a ceramic palette with five different mustards (including two flavored with strawberry and banana). Mustard gives the restaurant its name, as well as the zing it delivers in fits and starts. — Andy Battaglia

Escargots with garlic butter, $7; duck sautéed with old fashion mustard sauce, $17; sautéed fresh strawberries with mint, Cointreau syrup, Brittany sablé and vanilla ice cream, $8