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The faux-gilded pharaoh outside Mr. Falafel clues in passersby to this narrow eatery’s Egyptian slant. Those who snag a menu from the statue’s wicker basket will find typical Cairo street food like ful medames (an egg, lemon, and bean dish) and koshary (a hodgepodge of rice, beans, pasta, and fried onions) accompanied by a laundry list of Middle Eastern and Greek dishes—falafel, tabbouleh, grape leaves, hummus, and the like. Strangely, whatever the country of origin, most of the food is lightly spiced. The haphazard arrangement of Egyptian souvenirs and kitschy tabletops in the back is clearly not what accounts for this mainstay’s longevity, either. The mixed lamb and beef gyro to go (thoughtfully wrapped in an extra pita pocket to prevent dripping) is. — Lori Cole

Souvlaki, $11.50; vegetarian falafel combination #4, $8.50