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243 E. 14th St.,
New York, NY 10003
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4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R, W at 14th St.-Union Sq.
$5-$15
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Accepted/Not Necessary
This venue is closed.
We’ve surveyed the yakitori grills at Daruma and Izakaya Ten, but Mr. Jones, somehow flew under the radar for about a month despite its distinguished owner (Lesley Bernard of Tillman’s) and first-rate mixologist (Shin Ikeda of Angel’s Share and, more recently, B Flat). The place was even hidden behind plywood for half that month (Bernard is still putting on the finishing touches), but after paying a visit, we can tell you Mr. Jones will make you forgive and forget any association with the Counting Crows song. Like Tillman’s, it boasts a bright, warm, mod-influenced vibe that’s the antithesis of the East Village dives around it. There are also surprises on the yakitori menu designed by chef Bryan Emperor, one of the rare American chefs who can claim to have staged in Kyoto (locally, he has put in time at Megu and Nobu). His skewered chicken livers are among the most tender we can remember tasting in a New York yakitori, and if you can overcome the gimmicky nature of foie-stuffed Kobe meatballs, you’ll be rewarded. Don’t be surprised that Emperor is a bit Wagyu-happy — before he became a chef, dude worked the Japan desk at Lehman Brothers. Finally, the drinks, starting with an utterly perfect Moscow Mule, are as meticulously prepared as you’d expect from B Flat protégés. Final verdict: This place is Bob Dylan “Mr. Jones,” not Counting Crows “Mr. Jones.”
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