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Even after two decades, Mughlai still packs them in. Upper West Siders happily look on as sizzling platters of meat from the tandoor and poori, puffed bread as big as a hatbox, whoosh by. The menu lists regional dishes, like chicken xacutti, a coconut curry from Goa, and Keralese pepper chicken, along with North Indian standards. High ceilings and a glassed-in portion of the dining room give the space an open feel. Given the setting and the prices, expectations are high. But the kitchen is inconsistent. Bhel poori, Mumbai's famous snack food, at its best is a vibrant jumble of contrasting tastes and textures, but here it's a sticky mass of puffed rice, chickpea noodles, and pallid tomato bound by overly sweet tamarind sauce. Shammi kebabs, chick pea dough patties enlivened by mint and cilantro, are tasty, but extremely gummy. Skip the wimpy chicken vindaloo, which isn't hot as promised, and achar gosht, nuggets of gamey lamb in insipid brown gravy. Baghare baigan, a Hyderabadi dish from the south, offer some redress. Whole small eggplants cooked until pleasantly mushy become vehicle for a thick, hauntingly bitter peanut, sesame, and coconut sauce. — JJ Goode

Baghare baigan, $13.95