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Brass fixtures, dark-wood accents, and old-fashioned lights give the impression Mumbles might have served Washington Irving a pint back in the day. In fact, this neighborhood pub only renovated in 2006, replacing fern-bar décor and a Pac-Man-like logo with its current faux-retro scheme. Unfortunately, the menu hasn’t changed—just unexciting comfort grub like chicken, burgers, and pasta as the mainstays. Dinner happens in double shifts on weekdays: Early-bird specials draw an elderly crowd before 7 p.m.; younger neighbors, families, and hospital workers trudge in shortly thereafter. Mumbles is owned by Dave Feldman, the restaurateur behind the very similar Benjamin Restaurant in Murray Hill and the more eclectic East of Eighth in Chelsea. — Michael Kaminer

Mumbles hamburger, $10.25; “Better than Mom’s” meatloaf, $16.25; grilled filet of salmon, $19.95