In 2004, this venerable Village cheese purveyor moved across the street, mercifully increasing its size four times over. While some may miss the pungent aroma of the claustrophobic old digs, no one can complain about the new browsing-friendly roominess. Now shoppers can also emerge with Niman Ranch charcuterie, specialty olive oils, and a lovely selection of salads, quiche, pastries, and pressed-to-order panini. But cheese heads tend to zero in on the 250-strong selection from all over the world, from olive oil-aged Manchego from Spain to runny mixed milks from Italy. All manner of ash-covered, leaf-wrapped, raw milks, and blue varieties are here, and if it becomes a tad overwhelming, the knowledgeable counter staff is at your disposal, along with the sleek classroom, which holds frequent workshops. One thing that has carried over from the old spot: the crowds, so don't forget to take a number on the way in.