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The ongoing popularity, indeed the longevity of Mutz’s (as it’s familiarly known), attests to its quality pizza as well as one especially weighty creation called the foccacia slice. Just ask the East Villagers camped out at one of the tiny brown tables or propped up against the window counter after a night of barhopping and they’ll vouch for this street food’s ability to soak up one too many two-dollar PBRs. Sure, the menu features ziti, stuffed shells, and lasagna, but most customers are lined up for crisp-crust slices, slightly charred the Neapolitan way and topped by the familiar (pepperoni) and the less so (chicken cutlet). As to the strange name, think of it as the phonetic way a Southern Italian would pronounce the cheese. — John Capone

Margharita slice, $1.75; pesto foccacia slice, $1.75