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A straight shot up Metropolitan Avenue from Trader Joe’s, My Kitchen is the rebirth of a popular Forest Hills restaurant from the ‘80s. The look is modern-Mediterranean, with round artisanal loaves and bottles of olive oil gracing the counter surrounding the small open cooking area. While some appetizers suffer from an identity crisisfluffy smoked salmon mousse and cream cheese sandwiched between squares of dense bread feels more like a hefty breakfast canapéentrees tend to fall into two camps: Pastas and proteins plated traditionally with starch and a vegetable. Boneless pork chops braised in red wine with thick potato wedges and tart slices of green apple avoid dullness with bright autumnal flavors and just-fatty-enough cutlets. The popular saffron-tinged paella, heavy on the shrimp and mussels, is a welcome diversion from steak and spaghetti. — Krista Garcia

Pork in red wine with mushrooms and apples, $15; shrimp paella, fruits of the sea, saffron and rice, $17