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Waiters pass through a door framed by faux bamboo stalks and icicle lights when zipping between kitchen and dining room at this otherwise Spartan Vietnamese spot. While Nam Son adheres to the no-frills (bordering on gruff) service typical to Chinatown, English-friendly menus, ice water that arrives without multiple requests, and a space big enough for large groups make the bargain spot a shade more accommodating than the rest. Twenty variations of rice-noodle soups—including ten types of pho—offer every combination of beef parts like brisket and tendon, shredded chicken, and shrimp, with a sole vegetarian version. Chili sauce is on the table to spice up the slightly bland broths, but the lightness of the soup accentuates the freshness of the vegetables. Order a vermicelli dish and you’ll receive three plates that form a sort of deconstructed summer roll: a twirl of soft vermicelli, seasoned meat, and a generous portion of lettuce. The lighter fare is the highlight; stir-fried dishes are heavy on the oil, not as tasty, and portions are less generous. — Amanda Niu

Pho Tom, $6