Profile

Nothing much has changed about this middle-aged Midtowner since its opening in 1968—and that's exactly what nostalgic regulars like about the spot. Business types, diplomats, silver-haired couples and the random celebrity usually occupy the sunken dining room, adorned with Venetian murals and not much more. The expansive menu satisfies regional cravings whether you're in the mood for cheesy Piedmontese gnocchi, veal Sorrento, or liver cooked up Veneto-style. While diners may have a hard time choosing from the dizzying array of more than four dozen dishes, starting light to save room for the generous entrees is a good idea. A delicate beef carpaccio, for example, showcases high-quality ingredients, from the rosy beef to the salty parmesan to the aromatic olive oil. Excellent sourcing is also apparent in pastas, like thick pappardelle with tender porcini mushrooms that taste just plucked from the Tuscan countryside. And anything with the "Nanni" sauce is a highlight; the creamy pink concoction with fresh peas comes on ravioli, tortellini, or capellini and is more than worthy of signature status. Only the underdressed cold artichoke hearts could use more balsamic pizzazz, but this old hand's most prominent quality is consistently getting it right more often than not. — Kathleen Squires

Capellini alla Nanni, $19; pappardelle with porcini mushrooms, $26