Sun-Thu 5:30pm-11:30 pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-12:30am
6 at Astor Pl.; F at Second Ave.
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Dovetail’s John Fraser and hotelier Andre Balazs have partnered on a vegetable-driven restaurant inside the Standard East. They named the restaurant after a cow on Balazs’ farm in upstate New York, where the duo sources much of their produce and dairy products. It’s a stunning space complete with a sprawling open kitchen (with front-row seats), luxurious banquettes, and an outdoor garden, but even though the entrance is separate from the hotel, it still has the scene-y, unce-unce feel of a Balazs operation. The atmosphere matches Fraser’s excellent take on California cuisine: His vegetables dishes are just as innovative as they are delicious. Start with either the beets or the sweet potatoes — both are cooked on the rotisserie — and consider subbing a starter for one of the excellent sides, like crispy carrot fries and twice-baked celery root with bacon (it tastes like macaroni and cheese without the macaroni). The creamy barley risotto is also vaguely healthy, and is hearty enough to stand in as an entree. The main dishes — like roasted hake, lacquered duck breast, and lamb loin — are perfectly pleasant, but they’re more on the simple side. To taste something you haven’t had before, stick to vegetables (Fraser himself tries to stick to a vegetarian diet). And as you might guess, the dessert menu's vegetable- and fruit-focused, too: There’s a parsnip-carrot cake and a toasted-fennel cheesecake with grapefruit. The “winter sundae” with olive-oil ice cream feels like an inferior version of Otto’s classic dessert, but the bittersweet chocolate tart with curry-roasted banana's a crowd-pleaser.Recommended Dishes
Rotisserie-crisped beets, $12; twice-baked celery root, $7; barley risotto, $13