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Natchez brings big New Orleans flavors to the East Village, without frills or gimmicks. Stripped of the usual trappings like a voluminous wine list and plush surroundings, the kitchen dedicates itself to the food--inherently rich, intensely flavored Cajun-Creole fare. Consider, for instance, the hearty, compulsively edible andouille-and-duck gumbo: Pleasingly spicy, but far from scorching, it’s deftly thickened with a rich roux to the proper point between soup and stew and fortified with popcorn rice. A bowl of gumbo, a cold beer, and a surprisingly wieldy po’boy of crunchy fried shrimp tucked into a soft, Philly-cheese-steak-style roll smeared with sweet chipotle sauce and served with excellent homemade potato chips makes a fine Louisiana feast. But the rest of Shawn Knight’s short menu, which he tends to tweak almost nightly, offers less-obvious, more-sophisticated takes on Creole-style New York bistro cooking.
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