Natchez brings big New Orleans flavors to the East Village, without frills or gimmicks. Stripped of the usual trappings like a voluminous wine list and plush surroundings, the kitchen dedicates itself to the food--inherently rich, intensely flavored Cajun-Creole fare. Consider, for instance, the hearty, compulsively edible andouille-and-duck gumbo: Pleasingly spicy, but far from scorching, it’s deftly thickened with a rich roux to the proper point between soup and stew and fortified with popcorn rice. A bowl of gumbo, a cold beer, and a surprisingly wieldy po’boy of crunchy fried shrimp tucked into a soft, Philly-cheese-steak-style roll smeared with sweet chipotle sauce and served with excellent homemade potato chips makes a fine Louisiana feast. But the rest of Shawn Knight’s short menu, which he tends to tweak almost nightly, offers less-obvious, more-sophisticated takes on Creole-style New York bistro cooking. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
I lived in New Orleans in the early eighties, back when large shoulder pads and leg warmers were hip. Fashion may come and go but the essence of cajun food should not change. The menu did not take advantage of the restaurant's cajun niche. Where's the jambalaya, the craw fish, and the square doughnuts I used to enjoy? Granted, the chef does a good job creating his own spin-offs (a notch upward). The dishes were overall good. But the gumbo needs a kick (a little too bland in my book). So, if you want to taste New Orleans, do not count on Natchez. If you want pretty good food with a hint of cajun, Natchez may be your cup of tea.
Natchez--Authentic New Orleans Cooking head East (Village, that is)
After watching bars and eateries come and go at this locatioon it appears that Natchez may actually become a culinary anchor instead of travelling-chef road show. Through the open kitchen door one sees purposeful men and women clad in clean chef coats going about their business with style and grace. Seing a professional kitchen staff with their act together pleases this former chef to no end.
The menu at Natchez is simple, authentic and balanced. Blackened redfish is usually mauled by overapplication of pepper or by simple deliberate burning. Naatchez version is neither, yet sublimely flavorful and tender. It is served on a bed of succulent lump crabmeat, whose subtle flavor that perfectly balances the slightly charred and peppery fish. A fish stock reduction completes the dish.
Filet Mignon came perfectly cooked and beautifully presented on greens, and seved with brie-infused potatoes. Etherially light, yet rich and flavorful the banana bread pudding with pecan ice cream tastes like it was delivered from heaven.
Natchez East Village ambiance is simple and familiar, with exposed tin roof, unmatched furniture, plain (but clean)walls and modest decor. Service is friendly, informal, and accommodating; prices are very reasonable for this level of cuisine.