137 Sullivan St.
The team from Tribeca favorite Smith & Mills is behind this chic seafood-focused restaurant on Sullivan Street. Navy is a small, 40-seat spot, which makes its attractive, innovative design all that more impressive: The walls are lined in French linen fabric, khaki tents from World War II, and flags from U.S. Navy warships; the benches came from an old bowling alley; and antique train sinks fold into the wall. During the daytime, the sunny bar in front serves coffee and pastries; and at night, it transforms into a raw bar filled with oysters. If you’re sitting down for dinner, start with one of the light crudos (black bass or tuna), and the rich, creamy uni-butter toast. All of the seafood dishes here are simple and satisfying, but there are a few hidden standout vegetable options—like the crispy gnocchi with a poached egg, and a side of roasted sweet potatoes (note that all of the vegetable dishes change pending on what’s in season). Navy isn’t a quiet neighborhood spot, however: It’s bumping with a fashionable crowd, and many guests squeeze into the tiny back bar just for a drink. If you’re looking for a calmer experience, try the lunch service, replete with satisfying options like a braised chicken sandwich and the parsnip dumplings.