Profile

This venue is closed.

The most utopian trait of the New Paradise is that it doesn’t aspire to be part of the see-and-be-seen set. Among the low-key regulars, you’re more likely to find those with longtime second homes lounging outside in wicker chairs than the Über-tanned, iPhone-yapping crew that overtakes this beachy paradise all summer. Prices lean toward the Hamptons’ high side, but the broad WPA-ish mural of a fisherman and his Labrador that greets you when you walk into the gray, wainscotted dining room signals more relaxed retreat than uptight dining excursion. Chef-owner Robert Durkin keeps it real, serving dishes such as juicy, crisp-skinned Long Island duck with a not-too-sweet drizzle of raspberry sauce and a side of firm-textured wild rice, barley, and sautéed scallions. Ask to sit on the west-facing back porch, where you can sample the rich homemade gelato and watch the sun drop behind a low wall lined with fresh herbs and flowers. — Amy Zavatto

Mon.—Thu., 5:30 p.m.—7:30 p.m.; Fri.—Sat., 5:30 p.m.—6:30 p.m.; Sun., 5:30 p.m.—10 p.m., three courses, $30

Long Island duck, $27