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If you miss your train home to Westport, New York Central stands ready to rescue your dinnertime from the fast-food goblins in the basement of Grand Central. Nothing on the seasonally changing menu will blow your train whistle, but there are some solid takes on basics, and several have genuinely interesting details. The skyscraping burger, for example, comes on a sourdough bun with enough toppings to decorate three sandwiches: in the summer it's cheddar, cucumber, and eggplant jam, plus the standards. There is always a risotto—pea and mint in the early summer, sweet corn later on. Chef Christian Ragano, a Queens native, makes his pastas and charcuteries in-house and, of course, sources ingredients locally when possible. Walking up into the restaurant's loft off the Hyatt hotel lobby, the influences are less Gilded Age transport hub and more space-age launch pad. The white bar, lit up from within, looks ready for take off. In one hat-tip to the rails running under the building, the logo recalls a subway token. But an array of flat-screens lined up behind the bar speaks to a transient crowd from farther afield. — Edna Ishayik