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As you crane your neck in the small dining room to catch a glimpse of Spielberg, Lohan, or a stray Baldwin brother, the aromas from the wood-fired oven in the partially open kitchen afford a preview of the real attraction: a hearty Mediterranean/Tuscan menu that makes good use of Long Island's farms and waters. Local ingredients are more than a boast here, whether you're considering the small selection of pizzas or a bottle from the stellar wine list. This is still the house that Jeff Salaway built (the owner died in a car accident a few years ago and a memorial collage sits propped near the hostess’ stand) and the spot has seen every famous part- and full-time Hamptonite you can think of. One bite and you’ll know why. Nick & Toni's is haute without being haughty. Folk art and children’s drawings relate simple pleasures to a less-than-simple clientele. — John Capone

Whole fish from wood-burning oven (most often striped bass or durade), $38