At Nick's Pizza in Forest Hills, Queens, owner Nick Angelis's light, fragrant, superbly charred crusts contrast beautifully with creamy fresh mozzarella—melted but not boiled over—and bright tomato sauce and basil. No wood, no brick, no coal—how does he achieve pizza greatness with a gas oven? The mystery is part of Nick's allure. That, and a wine list that goes beyond the basic pizzeria house red and white, plus killer cannoli that will change forever your perception of the Mulberry Street staple.
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