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According to a sign on the wall, Big Nick—who also owns Big Nick's Burger and Pizza Joint up the street—visits the newly-located Fulton Fish Market at 4 a.m. every day to ensure that Niko's serves fresh filets. The early morning forays pay off. The quality of the food is generally higher than you'd expect from a joint that looks like a haphazard diner. And while Niko's does offer some standard diner fare, its fish and Greek specialties, from souvlaki to moussaka, are what bring locals back. Meat eaters can sample hot mezedes (appetizers) like the sweet, rich spanakotiropitaki (spinach-and-cheese pies) and the plump fried calamari. Herbivores should skip the "vegetarian boat," which has an overwhelming dill flavor, in favor of unusual dishes like Athenian fava, which resembles a solid split pea soup. Eaters of all persuasions may find, to their surprise, that their ice cream sundae cravings can be completely satisfied by three scoops of tangy Greek yogurt topped with honey and walnuts. — Lauren Aaronson

Hot meze platter, $19.95; fish specials, varies; Greek yogurt, $4.95