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Noah's Ark has more in common with the Jewish delis of, say, Ft. Lauderdale or Phoenix, than the kosher classics of the Lower East Side. A sterile dining room offers little in the way of Borscht belt personality, although plenty of punch lines come to mind when surrounded by the restaurant's blue-haired early-bird crowd. Then again, we are partial to their plate of pickles and the Hushpuppy Deluxe, a spongy potato knish hiding a full-sized beef hot dog. But does a plate of breaded chicken fingers really warrant a $19 tag? Why not stick with the theme, and give us Florida prices instead? — Jon Steinberg

Hushpuppy Deluxe, $11.95