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Though its location on an odd stretch of “New Chinatown” may inspire visions of shoot-outs and rolling tumbleweeds, the only thing gangster about Nom Wah Tea Parlor is its dim sum. This cart-less cantina contains two- and four-top tables adorned with red-and-white-checkered tablecloths that soon become invisible beneath the bounty of buns that arrive in succession. Ordering is done through checklist and each item is steamed on command. Make sure to mark off at least an order each of “The Original” egg roll, scallion pancakes, and roast pork bun. Other worthy items include rice rolls wrapped around the likes of spare rib bits, a scallion-chive mixture, and thumb-size shrimp and chewy turnip cakes with ponzu sauce. Wash it all down with a pot of tea from the dozen, health-benefit-boasting varieties (there's no free pot of tea at this tea parlor) or a Tsingtao beer, before idling back onto the sketchy street. — Lauren Bloomberg

Shrimp dumpling, $4; shrimp rice roll, $4; “The Original” egg roll, $5.95; turnip cake, $4; scallion pancake, $4; house special roast pork bun, $1.95