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This hip alternative to the everyday sushi joints that dot the neighborhood is the work of owners Tony and Jennifer Chan, who also run the popular decades-old Japanese and Chinese restaurant, Foo Luck, in Commack, Long Island. Tony Chan designed the joint with blond bamboo flooring, exposed brick, and a slick black sushi bar illuminated from below with blue light. When it comes to the house-made sushi rolls, the minimalist cool doesn't trump big portions: The signature pizza roll of rice-wrapped spicy tuna, eel, avocado, red lettuce, seaweed, and fiery orange mayo is cut into huge, triangular hunks, and generous amounts of fish are stuffed into bulging maki rolls. Appetizers, however, are as curated the atmosphere. An upside-down wine glass acts as a prop in Fusion Tartaki with shaved radish and mint salad concealed within the glass, and slices of exquisitely fresh salmon and tuna laid atop the base of the stem. — Laurel Fantauzzo

Fusion tartaki, $10; rainbow naruto roll, $10; pizza roll, $10