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Ray’s Pizzas have been proliferating steadily since the late fifties, but rather than compete with its various kin in terms of originality or fame, this indie slice joint circa 1990 gives a middle finger to its competitors across the river. The pizza diverges from the pack as well with a thin, crispy crust giving way to a doughy center topped by a slightly sweet tomato sauce. (The cheese is expectedly greasy.) Best for take-out, Not Ray’s offers limited seating—a few chairs against the window and a handful of stools beneath a wall of tattered photos of Ray Liotta, Ray Charles, and even Family Feud host Ray Combs. It’s strange that Not Ray’s pays homage to its un-namesake. Then again, the owner’s name actually is Ray. — Jennifer Cacicio

Green Slice, $3.25