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This Bay Ridge restaurant feels more meatpacking district than outer Brooklyn, too, with cool, moody lighting, glowing fiber-optic stars, color-changing Lucite panels, Formica tables, and turquoise chairs. The French-Asian cuisine is a melding of traditional and unique that results in perfectly acceptable Thai dishes and both straightforward and artfully flavored sushi and sashimi. Lovely, asymmetrical presentations are reminiscent of Japanese watercolors; the Mission 05’s sculpted flower of spicy tuna layered with black caviar places a yellow quail-egg yolk in the middle of the “petals” and completes the picture with dollops of orange mayo and teriyaki sauce. Tapas-style hot appetizers are unusual and brilliant; cold ones like yellowtail sashimi flavored with jalapeño peppers, and tuna pizza, a crispy tortilla topped with spicy tuna and guacamole, are equally delicious. But the menu really shines with rolls like the Nouvelle: mango, greens, avocado, tuna, and king-crab meat, all wrapped in clear rice paper and resting in a pool of orange yuzu juice. Less creative fusion entrées are worth a try, too, as are the honey-touched fried bananas served with green-tea ice cream. — Timothy Cooper

The darker downstairs lounge, with its own bar and mysterious lighting, is perfect for parties. There’s also a small backyard dining area with a mini artificial waterfall.

Mission 05, $12; Nouvelle roll, $13; new life roll, $11; fried banana, $6