Profile

With its name denoting newness and originality, Novitá has managed to stay fresh and vibrant since opening in 1994. This chic Gramercy Park eatery specializes in updated versions of classic dishes from Italy’s Piedmont region, supplemented with pastas inspired by the country’s South. The dining room is modern and romantic without being precious. Its Venetian stucco walls are painted a saffron hue, while sconces bearing oversized tassles cast a soothing glow. The clientele varies from young professionals during lunch to silver-haired neighbors at dinner. On weekends, suburban sojourners from New Jersey and Long Island make the pilgrimage, and chef-owner Marco Fregonese does not disappoint. His gnocchi are feather-light puffs surrounded by a delicate tomato sauce then topped with grated, aged ricotta cheese and a fragrant julienne of basil. Mains are likewise flavorful and sophisticated. The pan-roasted branzino, flaky and moist, rests beneath an earthy fricassee of artichoke hearts. Tender baby carrots and asparagus spears undergird the assemblage. While hardly revolutionary, Novitá’s formula of celebrating fine ingredients with creative recipes and straightforward cooking techniques keeps this restaurant relevant and, yes, even novel. — Michael Anstendig

Branzino con carciofi, $24